Valves
Heavy Duty Ball Valve
Float Valve
True Union Ball Valve
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How to Choose the Right Valve
The right valve depends on what's running through it and where it sits on the rig. High-pressure water at the gun is a different problem than a chemical line on a soft wash manifold, and a tank fill line is another thing again. Pick the right one and it'll outlast everything around it. Pick the wrong one and you'll be back at the parts shelf well before you should be.
Ball valves for pressure washing
For high-pressure water lines (the gun, the hose reel, the pump outlet), you want a metal ball valve rated for the PSI you're running. Plated brass or stainless steel bodies with PTFE seals handle 3000 PSI and hold up to heat and any chemicals coming through downstream of an injector. The real benefit is workflow: you can shut off the line at the wand to swap nozzles or tools without killing the engine.
True union ball valves for soft wash flow control
For general flow control on a soft wash rig (water lines, tank plumbing, and anything downstream of your proportioner where chemicals are already diluted to mix strength), a PVC true union ball valve with Viton seals is the right call. Skip brass on any line that sees chlorine. The "true union" part means the valve unscrews from the plumbing without cutting pipe, which matters when you're servicing a manifold mid-season. For raw, undiluted 12.5% SH lines on the proportioner itself, step up to CPVC components (our metering valves and check valves). PVC handles diluted soft wash service fine, but CPVC is what we spec for the harshest SH exposure.
Float valves for water tank filling
A float valve installs through a hole near the top of your buffer tank, hooks up to a garden hose or spigot, and shuts off when the tank's full. You don't have to watch it, and you don't come back to a flooded trailer. A brass body float valve outlasts plastic alternatives and handles the low-pressure, low-GPM duty of filling a tank between jobs without complaint.
Valve Selection by Use Case
| Where it lives on the rig | Recommended valve | Material |
|---|---|---|
| Pressure washer gun, hose, or pump outlet | Heavy Duty Ball Valve | Plated brass or stainless steel |
| Soft wash water lines, tank plumbing, post-proportioner | True Union Ball Valve | PVC body, Viton seals |
| Water tank fill line | Float Valve | Solid brass |
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Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a brass ball valve on a soft wash chemical line?
No. Sodium hypochlorite corrodes brass over time. For soft wash water lines and post-proportioner flow control, use a PVC true union ball valve with Viton seals. For raw, undiluted 12.5% SH lines on a proportioner, use CPVC components (metering valves and check valves). Save brass valves for clean-water and high-pressure lines.
What's the difference between a regular ball valve and a true union ball valve?
A regular ball valve is threaded or glued in line, so pulling it for service means cutting pipe or breaking a glued joint. A true union ball valve has threaded union nuts on both ends, which means you can unscrew it from the plumbing and replace seals or swap the whole valve without touching anything else on the manifold. It's the right call anywhere you'll need service access.
What size ball valve do I need for my pressure washer?
Match the valve's connection size to your hose and fittings. A 3/8" valve fits most standard pressure washer hose setups; 1/2" is common on higher-flow rigs and at pump outlets. For soft wash plumbing, size up to 1/2", 3/4", or 1" depending on your pump's GPM. Chemical lines run at low pressure but higher flow, so the plumbing needs to be sized for the volume.
Do I need a float valve if I'm filling my tank from a hose?
If you're standing there watching the tank fill, no. If you walk away to load the truck or run a job (or if you're letting it fill overnight), yes. A float valve is the difference between coming back to a full tank and coming back to a flooded trailer. Cheap insurance on any buffer tank setup.
Will a PVC valve hold up to pressure washer pressure?
No. PVC valves are not rated for the 2000–4000 PSI of a pressure washer downstream of the pump. PVC belongs on the low-pressure side of your rig: soft wash chemical lines, transfer pump lines, and tank plumbing. Use brass or stainless for anything past the pump outlet on a pressure washer.
How long should a valve last on a soft wash rig?
With the right material match (PVC and Viton on water and mixed-chemical lines, brass or stainless on pressure lines, CPVC on raw SH lines), a well chosen valve should give you years of daily commercial use before it needs service. The first things to wear are the seals, and on a true union ball valve those swap out in a few minutes without pulling the rest of the plumbing apart.
